honeymooners | True Costa Rica

Rincon de la Vieja: Waterfalls, Live Volcano, Hot Springs, Mud Pits, Nature!

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This is a perfect launch point for your Costa Rica adventure. Rincon de la Vieja is only an hour from the Liberia airport. It is an easy first night, and you are immediately immersed in Costa Rican culture.

We have always enjoyed our visits here. The Rincon de la Vieja is a compound volcano, kind of a small version of Yellowstone. There are nine craters, with some oddly shaped peaks, geysers, mud pits, hot springs, and cold waterfalls. There is also lots of nature and spectacular birding.

This is off the beaten track for most North American based travelers. This is an area that is not promoted very much in the US.

It is very popular with the European marked. On the final night of our most recent visit, a large group of Germans arrived. So of course, we had to have a couple of beers with them.

Also, until recently the road has not been very good. Many years ago, my wife and I made an attempt in a Toyota Corolla. We had to give up, the road was just too bad. We eventually went back with a four wheel drive vehicle.

Several years ago, the national power company built a geothermal power plant in the area, They have greatly improved the road. You can make it in a sedan, but we still recommend 4WD when driving around Costa Rica.

Our “Go To” Lodge here, has always been Hacienda Guachipelin. It was the first lodge in the area, and is always improving. We hadn’t been in a few years, and recently visited. We were very impressed by all of the changes.

Until now, my only genuine knock against this property, was the food. I enjoy “typical” Costa Rican food. But honestly, it is a lot of the same fare. It can get a little monotonous. Our guests tend to stay two or three nights. So the food has to be good.

But the latest improvements addressed these concerns.

Of course, there is still a typical restaurant, this is where the breakfast buffet (included in the rate) is served. They also serve lunch and dinner here. Typical food is tasty and nutritious. It is definitely worth trying.

But they also now have an upscale restaurant, that offers an upgrade in the food and more options.

You will also find a hotel bar, that doubles as a sports bar, They have good burgers, tacos, chicken wings etc. They also offer some tico bar foods, something that the locals might order when watching a football game. Including some tasty ceviche. There is a second floor that offers pizza.

Also a cafe that serves what they refer to as “fast food”, but we felt it was better than that. Great sandwiches and wraps. All very well done. The large assortment of desserts were also quite tempting.

This hotel is a genuine find. The rates are very reasonable with Superior doubles starting at about 150.00 per night, plus tax (low season).

But they have accommodations at several price points, along with some gorgeous upscale Glamping Safari Tents.

The nature is the attraction here. They offer a full compliment of attractions, that are free to the guests. There are several waterfalls onsite, along with some hot springs and volcanic mud pits. You will occasionally come across photos online, of folks who have intentionally covered themselves in mud, They most likely took these shots here.

The lodge offers a shuttle. Though we found it easier to have our own car.

There are lots of attractions located on or near the property. These are offered by a subcontractor that works closely with the lodge.

One of the more interesting to me was the whitewater tubing. You are given a helmet and life jacket, before floating on a tube. The also offer this as a combo with a horseback ride. They maintain a herd of their own horses. We took the horseback / tubing tour. We had so much fun. I never felt unsafe, and laughed our way down the river.

They also have a canopy tour. These can be combined with rappelling tour that looked pretty neat. Funny thing was that we found an old, an old episode of Samantha Brown’s show on the Travel Channel. She was doing the white water tubing and rappelling tour. She liked it! They had her hanging upside down on the rappel.

We have always found that this hotel to be a great mix of comfort and activities at a reasonable price. It is the the one I recommend the most to my clients.

I can’t wait to go back! Maybe next time, I will hang upside down in a canyon!

“Over the top” in Arenal

Costa Rica is known as the land of the reasonably priced boutique hotel. But sometimes, it is fun to splurge at a top resort, too. “Over the top”, is exactly how I would describe the new “The Springs Resort and Spa” at Arenal. We did not stay here, but we were invited to use the springs one evening. We went back the next day to tour the grounds and see the suites.

springs This property is owned and was developed by Lee and Cindy Banks, the owners and creators of the La Paz Waterfall Gardens and Peace Lodge. I first met Lee about ten years ago at the yearly tourism convention. He owned the land that was to become La Paz, and had just installed the first paths and walkways. Here was this young guy in probably the worst location in the exhibition hall. But you could tell he was a very dynamic person, very bright, and full of energy. The videos he had of the waterfalls were very impressive, and you could see that he was on to something. Over the years, we have all seen what La Paz has become.

Was it possible to improve on La Paz? I would not have thought so. But this is an amazing development. My first impression of the place was that a whole teak forest died to construct the main building. It IS beautiful. I didn’t say anything, but I was a little sad. I perked up when it was pointed out to me that the wood was not teak at all. It was laurel, a local renewable wood. It was just stained to a teak color. The huge planks that supported the stairs, roof, etc. were not wood at all. It was the expertly painted concrete and fiberglass. The color and grain were a perfect match. Seamless. I know that it sounds Disneyish, but they did a great job of it. At least it is sustainable, and keeps the natural feel to the place.

They were in a “soft opening”. Many of the amenities were still under construction. Men and women currently share the same spa. But eventually one whole floor (14,000 square feet) of the main building will be dedicated to the health club and separate men and women’s spas. There will be a casino too. Not my favorite activity, but there is a market for that kind of thing. There is a formal restaurant, and a more casual one.

But the Springs were amazing. Twelve pools in all, with more on the way. Yes, this place is open to the public for day trips. But I don’t see it becoming as crowded as the other springs in the area. The pools are split between some modern ones of different temperatures, including one with a swim up bar. There are several more natural appearing pools with waterfalls, in the woods. These were our favorites.

springsresort3 There are several different room classes. From beautiful standard doubles, to full blown villas. All high end, and very well done. This is not a cheap option by any means. Rates start at $375.00 per night in high season, and go all the way up to $1400.00 for two attached villas.

The admission for a day package at the springs is $40.00 per person. Meals and beverages are extra.

They are also opening a wild cat exhibit soon, and this will be included in the day package. There was a shelter that was being closed near San Jose. These were animals that for one reason or another could not be released in the wild. There was a fear that the animals were going to be destroyed. The owners here stepped in, and are putting the finishing touches on an exhibit of these beautiful creatures.

In short, I think that the day package is definitely worth it. The rooms are worth the price, but not in everyone’s budget. Like the Peace Lodge, these will be great for honeymooners or just as a splurge. But even at this price point, I think they are a good value.

Finally finding my way to Santa Teresa

Although I have been to Montezuma several times, I had never made the short trip up the road to the Mal Pais / Santa Teresa area. Shame on me, because there has been a buzz going on about Mal Pais for a while. I was late getting here.

The beach was unbelievable. It just went on forever. We love to take long walks on the beach at sunset (sorry if this sounds like a personal ad!). This was perfect for that. The surfers love this beach, though you have to be aware where the big rocks are. Swimmers have to mind the current as well. But it is also a great place to just hang out with an adult beverage.

During my recent visit to the Mal Pais / Santa Teresa area I made several hotel inspections. We stayed at Hotel Tropico Latino, and I profile this hotel in my post “Italian Sophistication on a Costa Rica Beach”. The following is a quick review of some of the other hotels we toured.

The first place I wanted to see, was The Moana Lodge in Mal Pais. It has always gotten pretty favorable reviews, and this was before they built the new Suites and Jr. Suites. I have a feeling that the reviews are going to get even better.

These accommodations are the newest part of the hotel. They had only been open for a week when I did the inspection. The only negative I can give is that there are so many steps. I mean lots and lots of steps. But they do carry your luggage. I promise that once you are up in the rooms, you forget about the climb. The views are magnificent, and the whole front of the Suites and Jr. Suites is plate glass. There is a balcony if you feel the need to sit outside, but you can see the ocean just fine from the living room or bedroom. There are teak floors throughout. The bathroom in the Suite features two sinks, bidet, and a two person jacuzzi tub. It’s perfect for honeymooners.

moanalodge The almost 1000 square foot Suite goes for under $300 per night in high season, including tax. This is really a great value for a suite at this level. I know I am going to be sending some honeymooners, for sure. The new Jr. Suites are $225.00 per night at high season, also including tax. They are smaller than the big Suite, and the bathroom is not as over the top. But again, they are extremely well appointed and not a lot of money for an accommodation at this level.

All of the rooms at the Moana Lodge are done in an African theme. The older existing rooms have also been redone to reflect the theme. While they are not as spectacular as the suites, they are attractive and a good value. The only other small negative to mention here is that the hotel is located across the street from the beach and up a bit of a hill. So you have to walk a little back and forth from the beach. Between the steps and this walk, I don’t think I am sending anyone elderly or with mobility problems. But for the young and fit looking for a romantic spot, this is a great choice. I can’t wait to return to Mal Pais, and actually stay here.

Even more over the top was Flor Blanca. But with high season rates that start at $475 per night, and climb to over $850 I guess you expect to be amazed. I know I was. Each of the deluxe secluded individual villas feature tastefully decorated huge open air living rooms, complete with hammocks. The garden bath is also open air. But the bedrooms are air conditioned for comfort. Very private. If you have the budget, this is the perfect romantic spot. I glanced at the restaurant menu and the spa. Both appeared to be first rate.

There are a couple places that I missed, and would have liked to inspect. Most notable was Hotel Casa Marbella. I have heard very good reviews about this hotel, but I just ran out of time.

The former owner of the Flor Blanca is also constructing a new hotel up the road on the beach. I knew these folks before Flor Blanca, when they operated a hotel in the Tamarindo area. We sent them guests on a regular basis, and once used them for a lovely destination wedding. This new project will be their third hotel, and the last two were very interesting. So I am eager to see what they have come up with. There was no one at the construction site but some local workers. So I didn’t get the tour. It was hard to see what was going on, but I know there will be some open air showers. I guess I will have to go back!