Rincon de la Vieja: Waterfalls, Live Volcano, Hot Springs, Mud Pits, Nature!

(Click on any picture to enlarge)

This is a perfect launch point for your Costa Rica adventure.  Rincon de la Vieja is only an hour from the Liberia airport.  It is an easy first night, and you are immediately immersed in Costa Rican culture.

We have always enjoyed our visits here. The Rincon de la Vieja is a compound volcano, kind of a small version of Yellowstone. There are nine craters, with some oddly shaped peaks, geysers, mud pits, hot springs, and cold waterfalls.  There is also lots of nature and spectacular birding.

This is off the beaten track for most North American based travelers.  This is an area that is not promoted very much in the US.

It is very popular with the European marked.  On the final night of our most recent visit, a large group of Germans arrived.  So of course, we had to have a couple of beers with them.

Also, until recently the road has not been very good. Many years ago, my wife and I made an attempt in a Toyota Corolla. We had to give up, the road was just too bad.  We eventually went back with a four wheel drive vehicle.

Several years ago, the national power company built a geothermal power plant in the area,  They have greatly improved the road.  You can make it in a sedan, but we still recommend 4WD when driving around Costa Rica.

Our “Go To” Lodge here, has always been Hacienda Guachipelin.  It was the first lodge in the area, and is always improving. We hadn’t been in a few years, and recently visited.  We were very impressed by all of the changes.

Guachipelin drone pano

Until now, my only genuine knock against this property, was the food. I enjoy “typical” Costa Rican food. But honestly, it is a lot of the same fare. It can get a little monotonous. Our guests tend to stay two or three nights.  So the food has to be good.

But the latest improvements addressed these concerns.

Of course, there is still a typical restaurant, this is where the breakfast buffet (included in the rate) is served. They also serve lunch and dinner here.  Typical food is tasty and nutritious.  It is definitely worth trying.

But they also now have an upscale restaurant, that offers an upgrade in the food and more options.

Guachipelin Food pano

You will also find a hotel bar, that doubles as a sports bar,  They have good burgers, tacos, chicken wings etc. They also offer some tico bar foods, something that the locals might order when watching a football game. Including some tasty ceviche. There is a second floor that offers pizza.

Also a cafe that serves what they refer to as “fast food”, but we felt it was better than that.  Great sandwiches and wraps.  All very well done. The large assortment of desserts were also quite tempting.

This hotel is a genuine find. The rates are very reasonable with Superior doubles starting at about 150.00 per night, plus tax (low season).

guach Superior two shot

But they have accommodations at several price points, along with some gorgeous upscale Glamping Safari Tents.

Guachapelin Glamping

The nature is the attraction here. They offer a full compliment of attractions, that are free to the guests. There are several waterfalls onsite, along with some hot springs and volcanic mud pits. You will occasionally come across photos online, of folks who have intentionally covered themselves in mud, They most likely took these shots here.

Guachipelin Mud GirlsThe lodge offers a shuttle. Though we found it easier to have our own car.

There are lots of attractions located on or near the property. These are offered by a subcontractor that works closely with the lodge.

One of the more interesting to me was the whitewater tubing.  You are given a helmet and life jacket, before floating on a tube. The also offer this as a combo with a horseback ride. They maintain a herd of their own horses. We took the horseback / tubing tour. We had so much fun. I never felt unsafe, and laughed our way down the river.

They also have a canopy tour. These can be combined with rappelling tour that looked pretty neat.  Funny thing was that we found an old, an old episode of Samantha Brown’s show on the Travel Channel.  She was doing the white water tubing and rappelling tour.  She liked it! They had her hanging upside down on the rappel.

We have always found that this hotel to be a great mix of comfort and activities at a reasonable price. It is the the one I recommend the most to my clients.

I can’t wait to go back! Maybe next time, I will hang upside down in a canyon!

Two Dozen Things to do in Monteverde

I spend a lot of time reading and sometimes responding to forum posts in the different travel web sites.  I know that a lot of the folks there enjoy the beaches and the volcanoes of Costa Rica.

But I also notice that many people have said that there is not a lot to do in Monteverde. My guess is that this is because the activities here are not as “in your face” as they are in other parts of the country, or on an organized tour.

I always bristle a little when I read this. As a (very) part time Monteverde resident, I have to disagree. Sometimes you just have to look a little harder.monteverde reserve

So here is my list of two dozen things to do in Monteverde:

  • Canopy (zipline) tours. Invented here, and still the best in CR. Maybe the world.  Don’t miss the Tarzan swing.
  • Hanging bridges. Ditto.
  • The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. World famous, for good reason.
  • Check out any of the other reserves. The different altitudes create different ecosystems. You will be amazed at the bio diversity up here.
  • Check out the numerous art galleries
  • Hike to the San Luis Waterfall
  • Take a horseback tour through the countryside around Canitas.
  • Tour the Rainaro (Frog zoo)
  • Tour the Serpentarium (Reptile zoo)
  • Tour the Insectarium (Insect zoo)
  • Take the “Trepiche” tour. A local family farm. They take you from the harvest to the farm’s own production of coffee and sugar. Sweet family, and much more interesting than I expected!
  • Check out the Bat Exhibit (with flight cage), more than you ever wanted to know about bats. But fascinating.
  • After you visit the bats, go upstairs to the little restaurant that makes their own chocolate. Great food here too, Argentine owned.
  • Tour the cheese factory, then enjoy the best milkshake you have ever had.
  • Visit the Orchid Garden just outside Santa Elena.  The self taught horticulturist here has created an amazing garden, and even discovered a previously unknown species.  We were amazed by the tiny orchids that you need a jeweler’s loupe to see.  A perfectly formed orchid in miniature.
  • Take a guided night tour into the forest
  • Have a coffee and great fresh pastry at Stella’s bakery
  • After your visit to Stella’s, walk across the street to shop for handicrafts made by local women at the CASEM woman’s arts cooperative.  You can also buy local coffee from the roaster next door.
  • Hear live music at Moon Shiva. Jazz, folk, Latin, etc. Always entertaining.
  • Check out the Saturday farmer’s market. Definitely some local color. Sometimes there is music, and there is always local food to eat on site. Good Ceviche!
  • Go to the hummingbird gallery. Great photo ops of dozens of hummingbirds.
  • Eat at any of the “International” restaurants. We are getting some interesting food up here!

Ziplining: a safe and thrilling adventure!

monteverde-canopy-tourThe zipline tours through the forest canopy originated as a commercial venture in Monteverde.  There is some dispute about  how they were invented and by whom.  One    of the local businesses even has a copyright on the term “canopy tour”, which has become the catch all    term that many use to describe this adventuresome activity.   I won’t get involved in this argument, but I will tell you that this is one of the most fun things you can do during your adventure in Costa Rica.  They are scattered all over the country.  But I feel that the best ones can still be found around Monteverde.  There are some slight variations on the mechanics.  But all are basically long cables stretching from one hilltop to another.  The participant (that would be you) wears a harness, that was borrowed from rock climbing gear.  There is a pulley mechanism that fits over the cable, and this attaches to your harness.  You stand on a platform, lift your legs, and let gravity take over.

Soon you are flying through the trees, and over valleys, sometimes several hundred feet up.  You can get moving at a  pretty good clip too.  There are guides with you constantly, to assure your safety.  They help you get your gear on, and hook you to the cables.  They are there to stop you at the end of each run.  Sometimes, the platform is high up in a tree or on a tower.  In these cases, you are attached to a safety line before you are released from the main cable.  The pulley system itself has some redundant safety lines too.  So this activity is a lot safer than it first appears.

It is not for the faint of heart, or those with a fear of heights!  But it is exhilarating and lots of fun.  The typical tour will have at least ten platforms, sometimes more.  As each new tour opens, it brings improvements.  So the established tours scramble to keep up.  I have heard of a Central Valley tour that offers a long “superman” style cable.  Here, you lay straight out and face down.  The cable is above, so you fly like Superman.  Sounds great.  At least one Monteverde operator has added a “Tarzan swing”  as a side attraction.  They hook you up to a swinging bungie cable.  You free fall about ten feet, and then take a long lazy swing out over a little gully.  It is scarier than it sounds!  But still fun.

The zipline tours are meant for all ages, as they really are not that strenuous.  Obviously, the littlest kids are not going to be allowed.  But I have seen kids as young as five years old on the tour.  They usually ride double with a guide.  The cables are very strong.  A guide once told me that they could support a car.  But some do have weight limits, that will restrict the largest folks.  So if you think that this may be an issue for you, it is best to check ahead of time.

Two of the Monteverde tours also offer bridges and walkways through the cloud forest canopy.  This is a great place to walk with a guide or by yourself to see what you can spot in the treetops.  It is also an option for the less adventurous to enjoy while the family daredevils are on the cables.  One tour operator has expanded into a full blown nature park with butterfly and hummingbird gardens, insect exhibits, a reptile and amphibian exhibit, and a full restaurant.  You can enjoy a whole day here, and never leave the grounds.

One last thing.  Some of the tours offer this up as a nature experience.  Other than the pretty woods, this is usually not the case.  The hooting and yelling tourists tend to drive the animals away.  But let’s be honest.  You will be standing on a platform and attached to a cable, preparing to speed high over the treetops to a destination that you may not even be able to see.  Are you really going to be thinking about birds and flowers?