Ceviche (also spelled Cerviche) is almost as important to Costa Rica Cuisine as the ubiquitous Gallo Pinto. It can be found all over the country. From bus station counters to high end restaurants, you will almost always find this fish cocktail on the menu.
I live in New Orleans, and I am a gumbo junkie. Working from essentially the same ingredients and spices, everyone here produces a different gumbo. All local cooks have their own recipe, and all are (usually) delicious. I almost always order a cup or bowl of gumbo when I see it on a menu. I want to taste everyone’s individual creation.
Ceviche is the same way. It is served throughout Latin America. Every country, and every cook, has their own spin. But the basic ingredients in Costa Rica are fresh fish, lime juice, minced onions, cilantro and minced peppers. Some cooks add fresh pepper and salt as well. There are some variations and secret ingredients, and it is always delicious. The fish varies. Most of the time it is either Tilapia or Corvina (Sea Bass). I have also enjoyed excellent shrimp Ceviche. I have even had “meatless” Ceviche, that is made with chayote (a Latin squashlike veggie) or mangos.
Those unacquainted with ceviche will turn their nose up at it. They think of it a raw fish. It doesn’t sound very good. But sometimes, you need to keep an open mind and dive in.
Ceviche is never actually cooked over heat. The trick here is that the dish is marinated in the lime juice, and the citric acid “cooks” the fish. It also adds a very nice astringent feeling on the palate. This is the perfect refreshing and cool snack to enjoy at a beach side soda (small outdoor restaurant) with a cold brew.
Traditionally, this dish is accompanied by Patacones. These are mashed and fried green plantains. They don’t sound appetizing. But you have to trust me on this. Fresh warm patacones served with the cool ceviche is the perfect counter point to the citrus. You scoop up the ceviche, live you would a dip. Some places serve it with soda crackers, and some with tortilla chips.
Tortilla chips seemed to be replacing the patacones. Especially in a bar that lacks a full kitchen. The crunch is nice, and they are still good for collecting up all of that delicious protein.
If I don’t get patacones, I prefer the soda crackers. This sometimes gets me teased by my city friends. They call me a peasant. They see eating ceviche with crackers as lower class. Which is a little strange. Costa Ricans are fiercely proud of their Campesino heritage.
But I was first introduced to ceviche by a family of locals on the beach, during my first visit to Costa Rica in 1990. They ate their ceviche with soda crackers, So for me, that was just how it was done. It is still widespread. You can usually ask for some crackers in any soda in the country. No one bats an eye. I like the crispy, salty base with my chilled fish cocktail.
I also usually prefer tilapia over corvina, because I sometimes detect a slight fishy flavor in the corvina. But both are fine. The spices are usually pretty mild. So most of the time, I mix in a dash or two of hot sauce.
I have “researched” this extensively. In no particular order, here is a list of my favorite ceviche in Costa Rica. So Far!
- The bus station in Quepos. I know that sounds strange. The bus station snack bars don’t look like much. But the food at these stops is usually the cheapest in town. The ceviche here is particularly good, because this is a fishing town. The owners have access to the freshest ingredients.
- Hotel Gaia, also in the Manuel Antonio area. A more upscale version, with some different ingredients. But this restaurant serves some amazing food, and the ceviche is no different. We like their Euro feeling and elegant open air restaurant, that feels more like seaside Italy than Costa Rica.
- Palenque Garabito. Located on the Pan American highway, between Puntarenas and the turnoff to Monteverde. This is a roadside soda, that is a slight cut above your typical soda. Of course it is open air, casual, and inexpensive. But the waiters wear ties, and seat you. The ceviche here, is an always fresh corvina version. This is a required stop for us whenever we pass by. During football (soccer) season, all the waiters line up in the dining area to watch the game and kibbutz with the Tico clients. True local color.
- Restaurante Caballo Blanco. Also located on the Pan American highway, about two miles north of Palenque Garabito. This one is newer (but well established). It is slightly more upscale, though on past visits it has been a little less expensive that Palenque. Truthfully, either is fine.
Unfortunately, I have had to edit this list. For various reasons, a few of my favorites went out of business. The pandemic was brutal for the mom and pop sodas.
If you happen to come across really good ceviche during your travels, let me know. I am always up for more research. Buen Provecho!