Pat | True Costa Rica

Rincon de la Vieja: Waterfalls, Live Volcano, Hot Springs, Mud Pits, Nature!

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This is a perfect launch point for your Costa Rica adventure. Rincon de la Vieja is only an hour from the Liberia airport. It is an easy first night, and you are immediately immersed in Costa Rican culture.

We have always enjoyed our visits here. The Rincon de la Vieja is a compound volcano, kind of a small version of Yellowstone. There are nine craters, with some oddly shaped peaks, geysers, mud pits, hot springs, and cold waterfalls. There is also lots of nature and spectacular birding.

This is off the beaten track for most North American based travelers. This is an area that is not promoted very much in the US.

It is very popular with the European marked. On the final night of our most recent visit, a large group of Germans arrived. So of course, we had to have a couple of beers with them.

Also, until recently the road has not been very good. Many years ago, my wife and I made an attempt in a Toyota Corolla. We had to give up, the road was just too bad. We eventually went back with a four wheel drive vehicle.

Several years ago, the national power company built a geothermal power plant in the area, They have greatly improved the road. You can make it in a sedan, but we still recommend 4WD when driving around Costa Rica.

Our “Go To” Lodge here, has always been Hacienda Guachipelin. It was the first lodge in the area, and is always improving. We hadn’t been in a few years, and recently visited. We were very impressed by all of the changes.

Until now, my only genuine knock against this property, was the food. I enjoy “typical” Costa Rican food. But honestly, it is a lot of the same fare. It can get a little monotonous. Our guests tend to stay two or three nights. So the food has to be good.

But the latest improvements addressed these concerns.

Of course, there is still a typical restaurant, this is where the breakfast buffet (included in the rate) is served. They also serve lunch and dinner here. Typical food is tasty and nutritious. It is definitely worth trying.

But they also now have an upscale restaurant, that offers an upgrade in the food and more options.

You will also find a hotel bar, that doubles as a sports bar, They have good burgers, tacos, chicken wings etc. They also offer some tico bar foods, something that the locals might order when watching a football game. Including some tasty ceviche. There is a second floor that offers pizza.

Also a cafe that serves what they refer to as “fast food”, but we felt it was better than that. Great sandwiches and wraps. All very well done. The large assortment of desserts were also quite tempting.

This hotel is a genuine find. The rates are very reasonable with Superior doubles starting at about 150.00 per night, plus tax (low season).

But they have accommodations at several price points, along with some gorgeous upscale Glamping Safari Tents.

The nature is the attraction here. They offer a full compliment of attractions, that are free to the guests. There are several waterfalls onsite, along with some hot springs and volcanic mud pits. You will occasionally come across photos online, of folks who have intentionally covered themselves in mud, They most likely took these shots here.

The lodge offers a shuttle. Though we found it easier to have our own car.

There are lots of attractions located on or near the property. These are offered by a subcontractor that works closely with the lodge.

One of the more interesting to me was the whitewater tubing. You are given a helmet and life jacket, before floating on a tube. The also offer this as a combo with a horseback ride. They maintain a herd of their own horses. We took the horseback / tubing tour. We had so much fun. I never felt unsafe, and laughed our way down the river.

They also have a canopy tour. These can be combined with rappelling tour that looked pretty neat. Funny thing was that we found an old, an old episode of Samantha Brown’s show on the Travel Channel. She was doing the white water tubing and rappelling tour. She liked it! They had her hanging upside down on the rappel.

We have always found that this hotel to be a great mix of comfort and activities at a reasonable price. It is the the one I recommend the most to my clients.

I can’t wait to go back! Maybe next time, I will hang upside down in a canyon!

Choosing a reputable rental car company

Choosing a Reputable Rental Car Company

In all my years packaging Costa Rica, the single greatest challenge has always been rental cars. Less reputable companies run damage scams. Some overbook. Others do not have replacement vehicles if there is a problem, or offer proper support. Some just have old beat up cars.

Companies come and go. I worked with one company for years. We had a fantastic relationship with them. They were even my landlord, when we operated a satellite office in Quepos (Manuel Antonio) in the early 2000’s. They were exceptional. Until they weren’t.

The company changed hands, and they suddenly became pretty awful. They were sold to a company that owned multiple rental agencies. Suddenly, I didn’t know the people I was working with. We started getting customer complaints about missing pick ups, the condition of the vehicles, overcharging, etc.

We had been sending our “overflow” guests to another company. We made them our principal vendor, and have worked with them now for at least 20 years. They have been stellar.

This is where working with a tour operator is important. A tour operator has a relationship with the rental car company. We often offer lower rates than the car company offers on their own website. And you have this in writing, at pick up. So no surprises. We know that they have good cars, and they don’t run scams.

Things to consider when renting a car in Costa Rica:

A good rental car is essential for a positive travel experience.

Look at it this way. A family spends $2000.00 on airfare. Say you spend another $2000.00 on hotels and tours. This means you are paying several hundred dollars a day to be there. When you factor in what you pay for hotels and airfare, paying an extra $100 for the week is not much in the whole scheme of things. A dependable and well maintained vehicle is the one thing that impacts your whole experience.

How new are these vehicles?

The roads can be tough on rental cars to begin with, and customers tend to drive them harder than they would a vehicle they actually own. Rental cars have a short shelf life. This is important. The better rental car companies tend to buy brand new vehicles, and turn them over before they put too many miles on them. Turnover like this is expensive.

The cars are sold at auction, often to other rental car companies. So a car that one company deemed too old for their customers, becomes the newest car on the lot at another company. This is something to consider if two companies are offering what appears to be the same model and the same year at vastly different prices.

Are they going to honor the quoted rate and insurance?

This is a big one. The forums are rift with stories of being quoted low ball prices, only to find out there are lots of fees. Or the insurance isn’t included. They have you at a disadvantage. None of the companies have cars on the airport property.

If you are flying in, they take you to an offsite office. You find yourself standing there with your luggage and family, and are suddenly seeing all of these extra charges added to your rental. You don’t have many options. Most people will just cave. You just want to get going on your vacation.

Are you going to have a problem with false damage claims?

Other than the company’s own testimonials, what kind of references do they have? It is difficult to challenge a foreign credit card charge. What recourse do you have if there is a problem? A few years ago, there were lots of reports of rear floor mats missing, and the guests being charged. There seemed to be rash of rear floor mats thefts. Who looks at the rear floor mats? But again, you have a flight to catch. So you pay and move on.

Will they accept any credit card coverage that your credit card offers?

There is a government mandated liability insurance that you must buy. There is no way around that. But sometimes you can waive the additional coverage if this is offered by your credit card company. Check with your credit card provider. If they offer coverage, ask for a letter. This is common, they know what you need. This is documentation you can show the rental car company.

How many offices does the company have?

This is one case, where size matters. If you break down in the boonies, is there support close by? What if you break down at night, will someone answer the phone?

It is something to think about when your rental car is broken down in Northern Guanacaste. A large national company will get you a replacement from Liberia in an hour or two. It might be difficult to get anyone on the phone at a small company that only has a few cars. And they may be hours away.

I have seen one of the companies that I deal with bring a replacement car on a flatbed truck up the mountain to Monteverde, AFTER DARK. That’s worth $100.00. Anyone who has driven that road in the daylight will agree!

This is where postings in the travel forums or an experienced Costa Rica tour operator is important. You cannot make this decision based on price alone. A US badged company is also not a guarantee. Many of these are smaller companies paying a franchise fee. Educate yourself as much as possible. This is one case of getting exactly what you pay for.

Not to blow my horn. But working with a tour operator is one way to avoid this.

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Driving and Bribing

The whole reason I host this blog is to share the country I love with others. Most of the time, it is paradise found and one of my favorite places on the planet.

However, it does have a few problems. The government has stiffened penalties on corrupt cops, and this is not as common as it once was.

You will still need to be aware of what to expect if you run into one.

Most importantly, you probably won’t have any problems if you obey the traffic laws. So of course, that is the best policy. I haven’t been stopped in over a decade.

But prior to that, I had been stopped three times, when (I have to admit) I was violating the speed limit. The first time was many years ago. I feigned a complete lack of Spanish. But I had just hit an ATM, and I foolishly let the police officer see the contents of my wallet. There were quite a few bills inside. I hadn’t driven in Costa Rice much before this, and I was intimidated enough to give the guy $40.00. I really regretted it.

The next time was a little scary. The road was a remote. The cop got me out of the car, away from my wife. He spoke perfect English, and told me it would take hours to find a judge to pay the fine. He wanted $50.00. I paid the bribe, only because this guy was so smooth that he scared me. I was afraid if I refused the bribe, he may suddenly “find” drugs in my car.

But these two experiences hardened my resolve not to pay again. So my third run-in actually turns out to be a fun story. This happened when my wife and I were driving down the Pan Am highway, only a couple of hours after we arrived in the country.

We rode right into a speed trap. The stop was legitimate. I was speeding. I gave the cop my passport and license. He took them and asked me to walk back to his car with him. I had just stopped at an ATM. We were preparing for a project at our home in Monteverde, So I had a lot of cash with me. I waited until he stepped away, and gave all my cash to my wife. I retained 10,000 colons (about $18.00) and joined the cop.

He had a tattered traffic law book, like a textbook issued to a student driver. It was in Spanish, and he had the fine for speeding underlined. This particular page was very dogeared and worn. He apparently turned to this single one page often.

He explained to me that he really did not want to give me a ticket that he (falsely) claimed would cost $200. He offered to give me a “warning” if I paid 20,000 colons on the spot. I was pretending not to speak much Spanish, and we chatted a little in “Spanglish” while discussing this. I was determined to talk my way out of this situation. We finally settled on the 10,000 colons that I had pulled out of my pocket, and he took it. This is less than the fine would have been.

During our conversation, he saw the several CR stamps in my fairly new passport. (I had filled up the previous one) He asked me what I was doing in Costa Rica. I gave him my business card. I explained that I was there working with ICT (the government tourism bureau) on promotions for Costa Rica. I noticed a look on his face when I mentioned ICT. I told him we were scouting locations for videos.

My Spanish was improving by the minute. I could see he was a little uncomfortable, as he processed this new information. I looked for an ID on his uniform, and saw that it was reversed and tucked under his vest. He noticed me looking. So I stepped to the side and looked at the number on his car. He definitely noticed this, and stepped with me to block my view. I stepped back to the other side and continued the conversation. He stepped to the other side as well. We continued doing a sideways two step. I think I was asking about locations. I continued looking at the number on the vehicle.

The guy suddenly gave me back my passport and license, and the 10,000 colons! He told me that since this was my “first time in Costa Rica”, he was letting me off with a warning. He told me to be careful because there were lots of police on the highway that weekend. Then he told me to go. NOW. I quickly obeyed.

To be fair, this is only the third time that this has happened to me in over thirty years of travel in Costa Rica. I guess that three times in thirty years is not a lot. But I have driven daily in the US for over fifty years and I have never been asked for a bribe by a cop here in all that time.

I love Costa Rica, and never enjoy speaking negatively about it. But this kind of thing is more common than folks like to admit.

If this happens to you my advice is to be polite. It sometimes helps if you don’t speak (or pretend not to know) a lick of Spanish. Keep any large amounts of cash out of sight. Unless you are driving impaired, you can just pay the fine to your rental car company.

If you have been solicited for a bribe, it is best not to challenge them. The ticket will have the police officer’s information on it. You can complain later.

Ceviche, the perfect snack!

Gaia Ceviche Ceviche (also spelled Cerviche) is almost as important to Costa Rica Cuisine as the ubiquitous Gallo Pinto. It can be found all over the country. From bus station counters to high end restaurants, you will almost always find this fish cocktail on the menu.

I live in New Orleans, and I am a gumbo junkie. Working from essentially the same ingredients and spices, everyone here produces a different gumbo. All local cooks have their own recipe, and all are (usually) delicious. I almost always order a cup or bowl of gumbo when I see it on a menu. I want to taste everyone’s individual creation.

Ceviche is the same way. It is served throughout Latin America. Every country, and every cook, has their own spin. But the basic ingredients in Costa Rica are fresh fish, lime juice, minced onions, cilantro and minced peppers. Some cooks add fresh pepper and salt as well. There are some variations and secret ingredients, and it is always delicious. The fish varies. Most of the time it is either Tilapia or Corvina (Sea Bass). I have also enjoyed excellent shrimp Ceviche. I have even had “meatless” Ceviche, that is made with chayote (a Latin squashlike veggie) or mangos.

Those unacquainted with ceviche will turn their nose up at it. They think of it a raw fish. It doesn’t sound very good. But sometimes, you need to keep an open mind and dive in.

Ceviche is never actually cooked over heat. The trick here is that the dish is marinated in the lime juice, and the citric acid “cooks” the fish. It also adds a very nice astringent feeling on the palate. This is the perfect refreshing and cool snack to enjoy at a beach side soda (small outdoor restaurant) with a cold brew.

Traditionally, this dish is accompanied by Patacones. These are mashed and fried green plantains. They don’t sound appetizing. But you have to trust me on this. Fresh warm patacones served with the cool ceviche is the perfect counter point to the citrus. You scoop up the ceviche, live you would a dip. Some places serve it with soda crackers, and some with tortilla chips.

Tortilla chips seemed to be replacing the patacones. Especially in a bar that lacks a full kitchen. The crunch is nice, and they are still good for collecting up all of that delicious protein.

If I don’t get patacones, I prefer the soda crackers. This sometimes gets me teased by my city friends. They call me a peasant. They see eating ceviche with crackers as lower class. Which is a little strange. Costa Ricans are fiercely proud of their Campesino heritage.

But I was first introduced to ceviche by a family of locals on the beach, during my first visit to Costa Rica in 1990. They ate their ceviche with soda crackers, So for me, that was just how it was done. It is still widespread. You can usually ask for some crackers in any soda in the country. No one bats an eye. I like the crispy, salty base with my chilled fish cocktail.

I also usually prefer tilapia over corvina, because I sometimes detect a slight fishy flavor in the corvina. But both are fine. The spices are usually pretty mild. So most of the time, I mix in a dash or two of hot sauce.

I have “researched” this extensively. In no particular order, here is a list of my favorite ceviche in Costa Rica. So Far!

The bus station in Quepos. I know that sounds strange. The bus station snack bars don’t look like much. But the food at these stops is usually the cheapest in town. The ceviche here is particularly good, because this is a fishing town. The owners have access to the freshest ingredients.
Hotel Gaia, also in the Manuel Antonio area. A more upscale version, with some different ingredients. But this restaurant serves some amazing food, and the ceviche is no different. We like their Euro feeling and elegant open air restaurant, that feels more like seaside Italy than Costa Rica.
Palenque Garabito. Located on the Pan American highway, between Puntarenas and the turnoff to Monteverde. This is a roadside soda, that is a slight cut above your typical soda. Of course it is open air, casual, and inexpensive. But the waiters wear ties, and seat you. The ceviche here, is an always fresh corvina version. This is a required stop for us whenever we pass by. During football (soccer) season, all the waiters line up in the dining area to watch the game and kibbutz with the Tico clients. True local color.
Restaurante Caballo Blanco. Also located on the Pan American highway, about two miles north of Palenque Garabito. This one is newer (but well established). It is slightly more upscale, though on past visits it has been a little less expensive that Palenque. Truthfully, either is fine.

Unfortunately, I have had to edit this list. For various reasons, a few of my favorites went out of business. The pandemic was brutal for the mom and pop sodas.

If you happen to come across really good ceviche during your travels, let me know. I am always up for more research. Buen Provecho!

Here kitty, kitty, kitty….

Okay. I will admit it. My wife and I are into cats. Big ones or little ones, it doesn’t matter. At one point, we had four in our house, and one in my office. We have a small colony of ferals that we feed in the yard. We haven’t quite reached the level of “crazy cat people” yet. But that is a line that we are well aware of, and we try our best not to step over to the other side.

We like dogs too, but we don’t own any. We have always had fun with our neighbor’s dog in Monteverde. She was a bouncy golden short hair lab. She would come to visit, and hang out in our kitchen. When Melissa was cooking, “Lady” would beg for a taste. Or she would keep me company while I handled minor repairs outside. She was always a part of our Monteverde experience. Just a big old sweet dog.

During one trip, we didn’t see Lady at all. We heard her barking a couple of times, but she never stopped by. One night, we were coming in from dinner with friends. We have some small lights along the walkway from the driveway. When we flipped them on, we saw Lady lying in the shadows near the forest. Melissa started to talk softly to her, and walked over to give her a little scratch. She got about fifteen feet away when Lady raised her head and looked at her. Then she got up, and walked into the woods.

Melissa called to her, and then came back to where I was standing. She was puzzled as to why Lady was being so standoffish. After all, she was very friendly and usually glad to see us. But we also noticed something. Lady didn’t “bounce” away like a Lab. She slunk away. Like a big cat. A really big cat. I felt a chill, and we hurried inside.

Our friend Holger stopped by for coffee the next morning. He was also our sometime carpenter and a guide in one of the local reserves. We told him our story, and together we walked over to the area of the yard where “Lady” had been. Puma tracks were everywhere. Holger had no doubt at all. We went down to the road, and found more prints high in the soft earthen berm where it had crossed over. Yep. My bride had tried to pet a mountain lion!

This is a very rare sighting in Monteverde. The woods are dense enough to support some other big cats. One night, we heard the sound of a large “something” that sounded like a child screaming in pain. Friends had told us that a jaguar would make that noise. We didn’t see it. To be honest, we didn’t want to look for it. It was a little spooky! We have also encountered a Jaguarundi on the bridges at Selvatura. This is a much smaller, kinda stocky cat that has an almost weasel like look.

But we had never seen something this big. A large predator like this needs a lot of territory. Over the last few years, the local conservation groups have been buying up land to protect existing “biological corridors” and create new ones. They do this so that animals can move around, and keep the gene pools diverse. If they are confined to a small area, in-breeding will eventually doom an isolated population. Holger speculated that our visitor might have been a young male passing through, looking for love. There had been a strong cat urine odor outside the evening before. I had just assumed it was a local tom marking his territory. Now, I am not so sure.

We visited our neighbors. We wanted to let them know what we had seen, and to make sure they kept Lady in for a day or two. They were understandably a little skeptical. Their daughter said that she wished she could have seen it. She had live her whole life in Monteverde, and had never seen a big wild cat before.

We were very glad that our friend Holger stopped by, and was able to verify our sighting. We were not just clueless foreigners, mistaking something else for a big cat. This was the real deal. And now Melissa has a great story to tell. The night she tried to pet the lion!

I think she is taking this whole cat thing to the extreme.

Two Dozen Things to do in Monteverde

I spend a lot of time reading and sometimes responding to forum posts in the different travel web sites. I know that a lot of the folks there enjoy the beaches and the volcanoes of Costa Rica.

But I also notice that many people have said that there is not a lot to do in Monteverde. My guess is that this is because the activities here are not as “in your face” as they are in other parts of the country, or on an organized tour.

I always bristle a little when I read this. As a (very) part time Monteverde resident, I have to disagree. Sometimes you just have to look a little harder. monteverde reserve

So here is my list of two dozen things to do in Monteverde:

Canopy (zipline) tours. Invented here, and still the best in CR. Maybe the world. Don’t miss the Tarzan swing.
Hanging bridges. Ditto.
The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. World famous, for good reason.
Check out any of the other reserves. The different altitudes create different ecosystems. You will be amazed at the bio diversity up here.
Check out the numerous art galleries
Hike to the San Luis Waterfall
Take a horseback tour through the countryside around Canitas.
Tour the Rainaro (Frog zoo)
Tour the Serpentarium (Reptile zoo)
Tour the Insectarium (Insect zoo)
Take the “Trepiche” tour. A local family farm. They take you from the harvest to the farm’s own production of coffee and sugar. Sweet family, and much more interesting than I expected!
Check out the Bat Exhibit (with flight cage), more than you ever wanted to know about bats. But fascinating.
After you visit the bats, go upstairs to the little restaurant that makes their own chocolate. Great food here too, Argentine owned.
Tour the cheese factory, then enjoy the best milkshake you have ever had.
Visit the Orchid Garden just outside Santa Elena. The self taught horticulturist here has created an amazing garden, and even discovered a previously unknown species. We were amazed by the tiny orchids that you need a jeweler’s loupe to see. A perfectly formed orchid in miniature.
Take a guided night tour into the forest
Have a coffee and great fresh pastry at Stella’s bakery
After your visit to Stella’s, walk across the street to shop for handicrafts made by local women at the CASEM woman’s arts cooperative. You can also buy local coffee from the roaster next door.
Hear live music at Moon Shiva. Jazz, folk, Latin, etc. Always entertaining.
Check out the Saturday farmer’s market. Definitely some local color. Sometimes there is music, and there is always local food to eat on site. Good Ceviche!
Go to the hummingbird gallery. Great photo ops of dozens of hummingbirds.
Eat at any of the “International” restaurants. We are getting some interesting food up here!

Casa Corcovado: This Jewel is More Polished Then Ever

The Osa Peninsula has always been a rustic place. But that is a good thing. National Geographic magazine spent some time here a dozen or so years ago, and called Corcovado National Park the “most biologically diverse place on earth”. High praise indeed. But I think it could be true. We have always enjoyed our visits here.

Though I have had to warn my less experienced travelers that this is a remote place. Sometimes, the accommodations can be rustic and food choices limited. You can go a whole day without power. But the payoff is the dazzling variety of nature and world class hiking in the primary rainforest. My advice has always been to “suck it up”, deal with some of the issues and just get out there. It is worth it in the end.

A huge exception to this rule has always been Casa Corcovado. I tell my guests that the folks here make going to an unforgiving environment as comfortable as possible. I also tell them that this lodge is very well run, and fires on all eight cylinders. My guest reviews have consistently been very positive.

We like to inspect every property we offer at least once every couple of years. More often than that if we happen to be in the region. We have been in business since 1992, and we have a pretty good network of suppliers. So most hotels are gracious enough to offer us a short stay to get to know their property, so that I can properly represent it to our clients.

If I stay in a hotel for a few days, I will always take a day to check out what might be new and interesting in the area. I also look in on my existing suppliers to make sure that they are still offering a consistent product.

But this is a tough one. Getting to this part of the Osa requires round trip airplane and boat rides. When you stay at any of the lodges down here, food has to be included. Most of the time, there are tours included too. There really aren’t any other options, so it all becomes part of the package. A free room for a night is one thing. But these extra expenses make it hard for me to ask for a freebie just so we can come down and look around. Consequently, I had not been onsite at Casa Corcovado in a decade.

I have worked with the management team here for years. The owner Steve and his manager in San Jose, Geovanny have always been terrific. Most of our contact is with the folks in the reservations department. We always find everyone on their team to be extremely professional. But more than anything, they are also just really nice folks, and a pleasure to work with. When Geovanny heard I might want to come down with my wife, he immediately invited us. Of course, we gratefully accepted.

When the day came, we flew down from San Jose on Sansa. We had fun flying along the coast and snapping pictures of Manuel Antonio from the air. We were greeted at the Palmar Sur airport by Jacob, who was to be our guide for the next three days. He packed us into the van, and we drove through the plantations to the lodge’s “Hacienda” welcome center on the Rio Sierpe. This was our chance to relax for a few minutes with a cool beverage, use the restroom, etc. We sat at a table on the river and watched the local boat traffic. Everything from modern boats used by the lodges, to some old fishing boats that didn’t look very seaworthy at all! We waited here while some other staff members arrived to begin their stay at the lodge. They all have their own schedules. They commute in and out, and stay for days or weeks at a time. We had a pretty full boat by the time we pulled away from the dock.

We rode down the river towards Drake Bay. The driver diverted from the main river and into the mangroves that grow thick along the river near the ocean. We slowly navigated the narrow canals, while Jacob explained the importance of the mangroves in the local ecosystem. Very cool. I’ve been in a mangrove forest before. But these were extensive.

We eventually cleared the river mouth and crossed Drake Bay to make a landing at the beach in front of Casa Corcovado. It was high tide, and we had to roll up our shorts and hop out into knee deep water. But nothing too difficult, and the guides stayed close to prevent any mishap. We hadn’t even reached the lodge yet, and we were already enjoying our adventure. We left our luggage to the staff, and boarded the tram (actually a trailer pulled by a tractor) that took us up to the lodge for lunch.

Wow. Things had changed. One of the things that I have always appreciated about Steve, is that he is not a guy who is content to lay on a beach. He always has a new project, or an idea to improve the guest experience. He closes the lodge for two and a half months during the rainiest months of the year. The staff members that want to take vacations, do so at this time. But the lodge employs a lot of local folks who depend on the lodge to support their families. They can’t afford a ten week vacation. So they are welcome to stay on to help with Steve’s many projects and general maintenance

Since I had stayed here ten years ago, there have been massive improvements to this already stellar lodge. There was a new pool to compliment the existing spring fed pool. The open air bar had been expanded and is now used for lunch and dinner when there is low occupancy. The old kitchen building is gone, and replaced by a beautiful new restaurant with high ceilings and stained glass windows. The staff area has been improved for their comfort, and all of the guest bungalows have been enlarged and reconfigured. They have also built some new Jr. Suites for family groups. They have improved their trail access, and rebuilt their little sunset rancho where drinks are served every evening. Oh yes, they are off the grid and generate their own reliable electricity. We were blown away. This wasn’t even the same facility from ten years ago.

After a delicious lunch and brief orientation, we were shown to our Honeymoon bungalow. It was stunning. There was a huge four poster bed with high quality linens. There was a large vanity area with closet and shelf space. The commode was in it’s own water closet, and there was a huge outdoor shower (with hot water, of course). This was lots of fun. It was lit with blue LEDs, and was a great place to shower and look at the stars. There was also the usual compliment of quality grooming products and a stocked honor bar. Not bad for the middle of the rainforest! I do have to mention that their fragile power system can’t support air conditioning. But the evenings cool down quite a bit, and we survived very well with the strong ceiling fan over the bed.

Our luggage had been brought up from the boat, and placed in the bungalow. We had some free time to move in, then put on our bathing suits to check out the new pool. We enjoyed a beverage and lounged about for an hour or so, before going back to our room to change.

By then, it was time to stroll down to the sunset rancho for a margarita before dinner. This became a ritual every evening. This is an active place. Plan on expending a lot of energy having fun here. A beautiful sunset and adult beverage is always a great way to finish a busy day. They serve some good boca’s (appetizers) at the rancho too.

We happened to hit the lodge during a lull and there were only two other people at dinner. They were leaving the next morning. So we had the place pretty much to ourselves. Jacob stopped by to give us the plan for the next day. We were going on a day long hike in Corcovado National Park. The lodge was bringing us lunch at the ranger station. It was going to be just the two of us and Jacob. A private tour.

We were up early the next morning for a delicious breakfast. The meals here are not buffets, we could order whatever we wished from the menu. Jacob was waiting when we finished. We went over to the “guide shack” to be outfitted with rubber boots and walking sticks. Off we went into the woods. It was muddy, and there was a fresh fallen tree blocking one of the paths. But it was easy enough to get around. This day was so much fun. Jacob was an excellent guide and interesting guy. Smart and well traveled. He knew his stuff, and seemed happy to realize that we wanted to know everything we could. He worked really hard at finding all sorts of flora and fauna. We soaked it up. Birds, monkeys, poison dart frogs, odd trees, fruits, insects, and flowers. It was a great morning. We stopped for an hour at the ranger station for lunch. Jacob cut fruit and laid out our full lunch of fruit drinks, lunch meats, fresh bread (baked at the lodge), gallo pinto, cheeses, etc. He then disappeared for a short while to visit with his ranger friends. We relaxed some, and checked out the beach.

After a bit, he came back and we started our walk back along a river to the

waterfall. I had been here a decade ago, and it was as beautiful as I remembered. There were several pools downstream. One of them was good for swimming. Another held a seven foot long crocodile. He was in a pool upstream from us, and Jacob assured us that it was okay. The guides apparently knew this fellow. So we took a nervous quick dip (it was hot and humid, we really wanted to cool off). Jacob didn’t join us. But I did notice that he had positioned himself where he could keep an eye on both us and our croc friend. So I felt a little better.

We eventually headed back to the lodge the same way we had come. When we arrived back at the ranger station, we found several huge scarlet macaws foraging in a tree. We were able to get very close, and take lots of pictures. When we arrived back at the lodge we were two very happy campers.

One quick note, this hike ain’t for wimps. Don’t get the wrong idea, it isn’t an iron man competition. But I don’t want to give the impression that this is just a stroll in the park either. I’m a middle aged (if I live to be 120) guy, who does light to moderate exercise every week. I had no problem handling it, so I think most people can do it. But this is an active destination, and it is hot and humid. We had sweat right through our clothes by lunch. You will find yourself stepping over felled trees and branches, wading in mud, and navigating the occasional narrow path. By the end of the day, we were a little worn out. But it was worth every single second.

After our hike, Melissa grabbed a shower, and went to get the massage she had booked the day before. I toured the property with the resident manager, Steven.

He showed me all the improvements, and the various accommodations. I particularly liked the Jr. Suites, which were new since my last visit. These are two adjoining one bedroom apartments each with 1½ baths. They can be combined. With the sleeper sofas open, you end up with an accommodation with two private bedrooms, two sleeping areas in the living rooms, two full baths, and two half baths. Perfect for a family group. After my tour, I went back to the pool for a dip and to wait for my wife.

Melissa came back energized and gushing about her massage. She said it was the best she ever had. I immediately booked mine for the next evening. This evening’s routine was much the same. We had drinks at the Sunset Rancho and another wonderful meal. Jacob stopped by our table to tell us we were going snorkeling at Isla del Cano the next day. A very nice couple had come in that day, and we had spied them in the pool earlier. We met them at dinner and found out that they were Costa Ricans, who were also involved in tourism. They were coming with us on our tour the next day. Jacob had also offered to take Melissa and I out on a morning bird tour before breakfast.

That night, Melissa was awakened by a horrible racket. There was some kind of animal carnage going on in the nearby woods. From her description, the guides thought that a puma or some other wildcat had gotten hold of a monkey. It goes to show how close to nature the lodge is. It also made me think about those wildlife films we have all seen. The prey always gives in so easy. That apparently wasn’t the case here. But then again, I slept through it. I’ve also once slept through an earthquake in Costa Rica. Go figure.

We were up early in the morning to walk the lodge property with Jacob. What a fun way to work up an appetite for breakfast. We had seen the day before that this guy had a good eye, as he was spotting animals every where. He proved it again this morning. He would hear a bird call from a couple hundred meters away, and in a half a minute he would have it sighted in on his amazing scope. We had a least a dozen good sightings, then it was time for breakfast and to board the boat to the island. Along with our boat captain and Jacob, we had the other two guests and another guide with us. We had a nice morning snorkeling with lots of colorful schools of fish. There was a beautiful little beach, and we had fun shooting a video of the hermit crabs for our grandson.

But the big adventure of the day was yet to come, as we were riding back in the boat. I was very relaxed, and quite content. I was literally thinking that I could not imagine a better day. Then a huge humpback whale breached in front of our boat. Right where I was looking. This has to be one of the most spectacular things I have ever seen. The whole boat erupted with shouts of “Whale!’ We hung around for about 15 minutes, and it surfaced a few more times. The guides were very happy. This was the first of the season, and there was a lot of chatter between the staff about it at the lodge. Once we arrived back at the lodge, we walked along the shoreline to where they had set up lunch under a palm frond pergola on their pretty little beach. We ate with our new friends, and the guides said that we were welcome to stay and swim. But I had to drag myself away. I had booked my massage with Cynthia, and I wasn’t going to miss it.

I don’t know how to describe it. How do you describe a massage? But I have to agree with Melissa. Absolutely the best massage ever. Afterwards, Cynthia had brewed some tea. Melissa joined us and we had a chance to chat. Cynthia turned out to be a delightful young woman. She had went to a massage school in San Jose, and supplemented her training with some Hungarians that hold workshops in Costa Rica from time to time. She was also a yoga instructor, and told us that she was taking her dream trip during the break. She was going to India with about 15 other yoga enthusiasts for a month. She was beaming. We beamed for her. It is always a wonderful thing to see someone follow their passion.

All in all. We were thrilled to see that Casa Corcovado had morphed into a luxury resort, with a minuscule environmental footprint. They are truly off the grid. They are generating their own electricity, purifying their own water, and dealing with their own sewage and trash. It really is an amazing model of sustainable development. The surrounding forest is untouched and the management is a responsible steward of the nature they share. They take their responsibility seriously.

We reluctantly packed up the next morning for the journey back to San Jose. We were not ready to go. We were ready to move in. We wanted to hang out with our new friends, eat great food, and hike in the woods. But our real lives were calling. So we left happy, and appreciative of the gifts working in this industry gives to us. And we hope to do another “inspection” sometime soon.

Driving to Monteverde

We have flown into Liberia on our last couple of trips. I like the San Jose airport more. It is more modern and full service, and I always enjoy visiting with our San Jose hotel friends.

But the drive to Monteverde from Liberia is an hour shorter. While American Airlines is absolutely my least favorite carrier, they have a flight to Liberia that goes through Dallas. This allows us to avoid the headaches of the Miami airport.

We drove up the road through Las Juntas. This is the first time we have gone this way, and it is the best road that we have found yet. There is a very good paved road from the Pan American highway that leads into Los Juntas. You have to navigate a little in town, but if you can find the statue of several Campesinos, you are on the right track. Turn here, and you are on the road to Santa Elena. There is good paved road leading out of town, and only the last twenty kilometers (twelve miles) are unpaved. Even then, this road is in very good condition and is generally not as scary as the other road up from the Pan Am. It probably is not worth the extra drive from San Jose. But if you are coming from Liberia, this is by far the best choice.

Gallo Pinto, a great way to start the day.

Gallo Pinto It is a typical morning in Costa Rica, and my lovely bride is craving a “Tipical” breakfast.

Costa Rica has always been an agricultural economy. Even though tourism is now the #1 industry, many folks still work close to the land. This hearty meal is just the ticket to “fuel the furnace” for another active day. Tipical breakfasts include eggs, delicious local cheese, plantains, tortillas and Gallo Pinto. Of course, a cup or two of excellent local coffee completes the equation.

Gallo Pinto is the national dish of Costa Rica. The main ingredients are black beans and rice. Recipes vary, but most cooks add onions, bell pepper, and cilantro, all fried together in a little oil. During the cooking process, the rice takes on the color of the beans. This gives the dish a speckled appearance, hence the name, Gallo Pinto. Or “Speckled Rooster” in Spanish.

Gallo Pinto is omnipresent and served in virtually every restaurant in the country, from the fanciest hotel to the Burger King at the airport. If breakfast is served, you can bet that Gallo Pinto is on the menu.

There are slight variants around the country, where local ingredients find their way into the dish. In Guanacaste, it is not unusual to find hot peppers. On the Caribbean side, we were surprised to find some shredded coconut. There is always another local favorite on the table too. No dining table in Costa Rica is complete without a bottle of Salsa Lizano. This mildly spicy condiment adds extra zip to Gallo Pinto, and almost everything else consumed here!

Ziplining: a safe and thrilling adventure!

monteverde-canopy-tour The zipline tours through the forest canopy originated as a commercial venture in Monteverde. There is some dispute about how they were invented and by whom. One of the local businesses even has a copyright on the term “canopy tour”, which has become the catch all term that many use to describe this adventuresome activity. I won’t get involved in this argument, but I will tell you that this is one of the most fun things you can do during your adventure in Costa Rica. They are scattered all over the country. But I feel that the best ones can still be found around Monteverde. There are some slight variations on the mechanics. But all are basically long cables stretching from one hilltop to another. The participant (that would be you) wears a harness, that was borrowed from rock climbing gear. There is a pulley mechanism that fits over the cable, and this attaches to your harness. You stand on a platform, lift your legs, and let gravity take over.

Soon you are flying through the trees, and over valleys, sometimes several hundred feet up. You can get moving at a pretty good clip too. There are guides with you constantly, to assure your safety. They help you get your gear on, and hook you to the cables. They are there to stop you at the end of each run. Sometimes, the platform is high up in a tree or on a tower. In these cases, you are attached to a safety line before you are released from the main cable. The pulley system itself has some redundant safety lines too. So this activity is a lot safer than it first appears.

It is not for the faint of heart, or those with a fear of heights! But it is exhilarating and lots of fun. The typical tour will have at least ten platforms, sometimes more. As each new tour opens, it brings improvements. So the established tours scramble to keep up. I have heard of a Central Valley tour that offers a long “superman” style cable. Here, you lay straight out and face down. The cable is above, so you fly like Superman. Sounds great. At least one Monteverde operator has added a “Tarzan swing” as a side attraction. They hook you up to a swinging bungie cable. You free fall about ten feet, and then take a long lazy swing out over a little gully. It is scarier than it sounds! But still fun.

The zipline tours are meant for all ages, as they really are not that strenuous. Obviously, the littlest kids are not going to be allowed. But I have seen kids as young as five years old on the tour. They usually ride double with a guide. The cables are very strong. A guide once told me that they could support a car. But some do have weight limits, that will restrict the largest folks. So if you think that this may be an issue for you, it is best to check ahead of time.

Two of the Monteverde tours also offer bridges and walkways through the cloud forest canopy. This is a great place to walk with a guide or by yourself to see what you can spot in the treetops. It is also an option for the less adventurous to enjoy while the family daredevils are on the cables. One tour operator has expanded into a full blown nature park with butterfly and hummingbird gardens, insect exhibits, a reptile and amphibian exhibit, and a full restaurant. You can enjoy a whole day here, and never leave the grounds.

One last thing. Some of the tours offer this up as a nature experience. Other than the pretty woods, this is usually not the case. The hooting and yelling tourists tend to drive the animals away. But let’s be honest. You will be standing on a platform and attached to a cable, preparing to speed high over the treetops to a destination that you may not even be able to see. Are you really going to be thinking about birds and flowers?