True Costa Rica

Rincon de la Vieja: Waterfalls, Live Volcano, Hot Springs, Mud Pits, Nature!

(Click on any picture to enlarge)

This is a perfect launch point for your Costa Rica adventure. Rincon de la Vieja is only an hour from the Liberia airport. It is an easy first night, and you are immediately immersed in Costa Rican culture.

We have always enjoyed our visits here. The Rincon de la Vieja is a compound volcano, kind of a small version of Yellowstone. There are nine craters, with some oddly shaped peaks, geysers, mud pits, hot springs, and cold waterfalls. There is also lots of nature and spectacular birding.

This is off the beaten track for most North American based travelers. This is an area that is not promoted very much in the US.

It is very popular with the European marked. On the final night of our most recent visit, a large group of Germans arrived. So of course, we had to have a couple of beers with them.

Also, until recently the road has not been very good. Many years ago, my wife and I made an attempt in a Toyota Corolla. We had to give up, the road was just too bad. We eventually went back with a four wheel drive vehicle.

Several years ago, the national power company built a geothermal power plant in the area, They have greatly improved the road. You can make it in a sedan, but we still recommend 4WD when driving around Costa Rica.

Our “Go To” Lodge here, has always been Hacienda Guachipelin. It was the first lodge in the area, and is always improving. We hadn’t been in a few years, and recently visited. We were very impressed by all of the changes.

Until now, my only genuine knock against this property, was the food. I enjoy “typical” Costa Rican food. But honestly, it is a lot of the same fare. It can get a little monotonous. Our guests tend to stay two or three nights. So the food has to be good.

But the latest improvements addressed these concerns.

Of course, there is still a typical restaurant, this is where the breakfast buffet (included in the rate) is served. They also serve lunch and dinner here. Typical food is tasty and nutritious. It is definitely worth trying.

But they also now have an upscale restaurant, that offers an upgrade in the food and more options.

You will also find a hotel bar, that doubles as a sports bar, They have good burgers, tacos, chicken wings etc. They also offer some tico bar foods, something that the locals might order when watching a football game. Including some tasty ceviche. There is a second floor that offers pizza.

Also a cafe that serves what they refer to as “fast food”, but we felt it was better than that. Great sandwiches and wraps. All very well done. The large assortment of desserts were also quite tempting.

This hotel is a genuine find. The rates are very reasonable with Superior doubles starting at about 150.00 per night, plus tax (low season).

But they have accommodations at several price points, along with some gorgeous upscale Glamping Safari Tents.

The nature is the attraction here. They offer a full compliment of attractions, that are free to the guests. There are several waterfalls onsite, along with some hot springs and volcanic mud pits. You will occasionally come across photos online, of folks who have intentionally covered themselves in mud, They most likely took these shots here.

The lodge offers a shuttle. Though we found it easier to have our own car.

There are lots of attractions located on or near the property. These are offered by a subcontractor that works closely with the lodge.

One of the more interesting to me was the whitewater tubing. You are given a helmet and life jacket, before floating on a tube. The also offer this as a combo with a horseback ride. They maintain a herd of their own horses. We took the horseback / tubing tour. We had so much fun. I never felt unsafe, and laughed our way down the river.

They also have a canopy tour. These can be combined with rappelling tour that looked pretty neat. Funny thing was that we found an old, an old episode of Samantha Brown’s show on the Travel Channel. She was doing the white water tubing and rappelling tour. She liked it! They had her hanging upside down on the rappel.

We have always found that this hotel to be a great mix of comfort and activities at a reasonable price. It is the the one I recommend the most to my clients.

I can’t wait to go back! Maybe next time, I will hang upside down in a canyon!

What Exactly is a Tour Operator? Why Do I Need One?

A lot of folks don’t really understand exactly what it is we do, as a “Tour Operator” specializing in Costa Rica.

So I just want to just share a tour operators point of view, and offer some general information about the pros of working with a tour operator.

Are you a Travel Agent?

Please notice that I said tour operator, not travel agent. A tour operator is a travel agent who specializes in one destination. It is an important difference. That is what I do. Pre-Internet (yes, there was such a time), I sold some retail trips. But the majority of my business was as a wholesaler. I packaged Costa Rica for resale to travel agents. We had pre-made itineraries. But we were very good at special requests, and custom packages. I make my network of travel agent clients look very smart indeed.

I got into the business because I fell in love with Costa Rica. I have now been in this industry for over thirty years (since 1992), and I still love my job. I have also learned a few things along the way. I am happy to share my thoughts.

We offer our services for FREE. A reputable tour operator does not charge a fee, or mark up from what you pay for your trip.

You should be able to purchase the same service online for the same price. So we are a FREE service. Though sometimes, a tour operator can get special “net rates”, and offer the same hotel for an even lower price than the hotel might offer. But you don’t work with a tour operator solely because of a lower price.

You work with a tour operator because of our knowledge and expertise of the destination.

I go to Costa Rica at least twice a year, and usually more than that. I am always looking to tour a new hotel, or look over a local destination that I haven’t checked out. It drives my wife crazy, as I can get a little obsessive. But if someone mentions a hotel at a particular beach, I have probably at least inspected it. I know what is good or bad, and I know the other hotels in that area to compare it to.

That guy from work, may have loved the resort hotel he took his wife and kids too. Anyone can book that for you. But that is probably the only hotel he knew about in that area. Sure HE loved it, and it probably is quite nice. But if you are going on a honeymoon or anniversary trip, a tour operator can steer you to a romantic adult hotel. One without kids doing cannonballs in the pool. Or if you are bringing the family, there could be a more suitable hotel choice, or a completely different beach, or just a better value that your friend had no clue about.

Everyone is different. A “just the girls” trip is different than a bachelor party fishing trip. Some people want to dangle from bungee cords or rappel down the side of a cliff. Others want to add to their birding life list. One Size Does Not Fit All.

The most important part of a tour operator’s job is listening.

So many people call me with an idea of what they want to do in Costa Rica. Sometimes, the activities don’t match the region they want to visit. Or they are just confused by all the hype online. Often my job is to educate them, and guide them in a direction more suitable to their interests or expectations. Costa Rica is a diverse destination. If someone just wants to sell you something, without listening to what you expect your trip to be, Move on.

We know what things should cost. We aren’t fooled by Fake “Sales”

We are in the market everyday. For example, we knew of a large beach hotel that was offering a “buy two nights, get a third night free!” special. Sounds great. Except they increased their prices by over 50% before they offered that special. So you are actually paying slightly more for that room, than you would have before it was on “special”. And I am not sure it was worth the old price to begin with, let alone the inflated new rack. But if you are looking at it for the first time, you probably think you are seeing a great bargain.

Contrary to popular belief, we also don’t have a vested interest in what you buy.

Commissions in our industry are pretty consistent. We are like stockbrokers. We get paid the same if you book a great hotel, or a dump. So we usually don’t have a financial interest in putting you in a particular hotel. But in the Internet age, our reputation is everything. So my interest is in giving you the best experience possible. Good experiences drive referrals and repeat business to our in box.

Any business owner loves repeat business. Awhile back, I booked a honeymoon for a young lady. She told me she was a repeat customer. It turned out I had booked a trip for her family when she was teen. Her dad still had my card. If I had put them in a substandard hotel that paid me an extra 5% commission, would they have remembered me? Maybe. But also maybe for the wrong reason. Looking out for them brought me a nice piece of business a dozen years later. Isn’t that cool? After all this time, the lion’s share of my business is repeats and referrals.

A few years ago, we sold our second home in Monteverde. The buyer? A honeymoon couple from almost twenty years ago. They were taking their kids on a first trip to Costa Rica, and stayed in my house.

You have one person, that is making sure everything is work together and smoothly

Think of your tour operator as the “quarterback” for your whole trip. We make sure that everything goes smoothly. Your trip may involve several transportation legs, often from different vendors. Your tours and activities hosts vary from point to point as well, and you will be staying in several different hotels. That is a lot of balls in the air! We have a nationwide network of vendors, that cover all facets of your adventure. We will make sure that all of these gears mesh fully.

We can make sure that the private van or rental car shows up, and is on time. We coordinate your day tours, and know the best activities in each particular area. We know how many days you should spend in a particular region, or when you are trying to do too much in a short time. We know what car rental companies import their own cars and keep them in good repair. The ones with multiple offices and 24 hour help lines. And yes, we also know who is most likely to charge for phantom damage or overbook.

Sadly I also know of the hotels that are in trouble, and probably won’t survive low season. They are trying their best, and are still accepting reservations and deposits. We have had to back away from them.

No one wants to talk about this part of our industry. With the recent poor economy, many hotels experienced huge difficulties. The problem is that they built when the economy boomed, and overextended themselves. A couple of the major players out there are now owned by the banks. Others just went out of business. They could not keep the ship afloat in the poor economy. Some of them, were folks we worked with on a regular basis. We are not going to send your funds to someone that is not going to be there. When we see the warning signs, we adjust accordingly. It is an unpleasant part of the job. Especially if it is someone that we really like. But someone needs to be paying attention to this kind of thing. I am spending my customer’s money, and I have to be diligent.

We are your Advocate. In case there is an emergency back home, or your adventure is interrupted.

If you should encounter a problem while you are there, we are in a better position to negotiate for you. If you book a hotel or tour directly, you are a one time customer. You don’t have a lot of leverage. You need an advocate.

Tour operators have relationships with the hotels, transportation companies and tour companies. Most hotels get the bulk of their business from wholesalers and tour operators. They value these relationships (as do we), and want to nurture them. So our relationships are pretty amicable. Chances are that if we booked it, we know the owner or general manager. We have probably had lunch with them. Or a few drinks at the annual travel mart! We are at a much better starting point to negotiate a solution.

Or if you have to cut the vacation short due to an emergency at home, we can handle all the cancellations and get you to the airport on time. We can negotiate the refunds or credits. And we do this while you are on the plane home.

Unfortunately, I have had to do this probably a dozen times in the last thirty years. But we have almost always been able to come to a solution that satisfies everyone. It is one less thing to worry about. A worst case scenario is that something has happened at home that was so bad, that you have to cancel your trip and rush back home. Do you really want to stress about the canceled arrangements? We’ve got your back.

If the problem is a flight delay or missed connection on your way into the country, your tour operator can help there too. We can make sure that everyone is aware of your situation and keep you in the loop. This way the van will be there to meet you that evening, or the next day when you finally do arrive. If this causes a ripple effect elsewhere in your itinerary, we can smooth those out with the hotels or tour companies too. A tour operator can re book when necessary, and send new vouchers in a very short time. This kind of thing happens more frequently than you might think.

We are US based. You are not sending funds or credit card info to a foreign land.

If you work with a US based tour operator, you pay for it here in the US. And you only pay once. You are not emailing your credit card information to multiple entities in a foreign land. If for some reason a refund is due, that is coming from here in the US too. You are not trying to negotiate with the front desk in another country, where you may not have any recourse.

In a nutshell. No matter how you book your trip, you are spending a tidy sum. The services of a tour operator are FREE to you. You are buying the services for the same price as a direct booking, and sometimes for less. Why would you not want to work with someone in your home country, who is an expert in your destination? Our advice is free, and we can make sure that everything flows smoothly. We know the pitfalls, and can prevent a problem from happening in the first place. If something does go wrong, our support is there if you need us.

We know the country better than anyone. And we know it from a North American perspective.

No matter what happens, we can also tell you about that great little tapas restaurant with the fantastic sunset view, or give you directions to the rocking chair factory in Sarchi.

My advice is that before you start booking everything directly, give me a call. We can talk, and get a feel for what you are doing.. If I can’t make you more comfortable or if you don’t feel confident, then move on. You can still book it yourself. No hard feelings.

But I feel confident that we can greatly enhance your experience. And make the process easier at the same time.

I hope this helps. Let me know if I can offer any further advice. Just get in touch!

Choosing a reputable rental car company

In all my years packaging Costa Rica, the single greatest challenge has always been rental cars. Less reputable companies run damage scams. Some overbook. Others do not have replacement vehicles if there is a problem, or offer proper support. Some just have old beat up cars.

Companies come and go. I worked with one company for years. We had a fantastic relationship with them. They were even my landlord, when we operated a satellite office in Quepos (Manuel Antonio) in the early 2000’s. They were exceptional. Until they weren’t.

The company changed hands, and they became pretty awful. They were sold to a company that owned multiple rental agencies. Suddenly, I didn’t know the people I was working with. We started getting customer complaints about missing pick ups, the condition of the vehicles, overcharging, etc.

We had been sending our “overflow” guests to another company. We made them our principal vendor, and have worked with them now for at least 15 years. They have been stellar.

This is were working with a tour operator is important. A tour operator has a relationship with the rental car company. We often offer lower rates that the car company offers on their own website. And you have this in writing, on your voucher at pick up. So no surprises. We know that they have good cars, and they don’t run scams.

Things to consider when renting a car in Costa Rica:

A good rental car is essential for a positive travel experience. Look at it this way. A family spends $2000.00 on airfare. Say you spend another $2000.00 on hotels and tours. This means you are paying several hundred dollars a day to be there. When you factor in what you pay for hotels and airfare, paying an extra $100 for a week of is not much in the whole scheme of things. A dependable and well maintained vehicle is the one thing that impacts your whole experience.

How new are these vehicles? The roads can be tough on rental cars to begin with, and customers tend to drive them harder than they would a vehicle they actually own. Rental cars have a short shelf life. This is important. The better rental car companies tend to buy brand new vehicles, and turn them over before they put too many miles on them. Turnover like this is expensive.

The cars are sold at auction, often to other rental car companies. So a car that one company deemed too old for their customers, becomes the newest car on the lot at another company. This is something to consider if two companies are offering what appears to be the same model and the same year at vastly different prices.

Are they going to honor the quoted rate and insurance? This is a big one. The forums are rift with stories of being quoted low ball prices, only to find out there are lots of fees. Or the insurance isn’t included. They have you at a disadvantage. None of the companies have cars on the airport property. If you are flying in, they take you to an offsite office. You find yourself standing their with your luggage and family, and are suddenly seeing all of these extra charges add to your rental. You don’t have many options. Most people will just cave. You just want to get going on your vacation.

Are you going to have a problem with false damage claims? Other than the company’s own testimonials, what kind of references do they have? It is difficult to challenge a foreign credit card charge. What recourse do you have if there is a problem? A few years ago, there were lots of reports of rear floor mats missing, and the guests being charged. There seemed to be rash of rear floor mats stolen. Who looks at the rear floor mats? But again, you have a flight to catch. So you pay and move on.

Will they accept any credit card coverage that your credit card offers? There is a government mandated liability insurance that you must buy. But sometimes you can waive the additional coverage if this is offered by your credit card company. Though we get a discount on the insurance too,

How many offices does the company have? If you break down in the boonies, is there support close by? What if you break down at night, will someone answer the phone?

It is something to think about when your rental car is broken down in Northern Guanacaste. A large national company will get you a replacement from Liberia in an hour or two. It might be difficult to get anyone on the phone at a small company that only has a few cars. And they may be hours away.

I have seen one of the companies that I deal with bring a replacement car on a flatbed truck up the mountain to Monteverde, AFTER DARK. That’s worth $100.00. Anyone who has driven that road in the daylight will agree!

This is where postings in the travel forums or an experienced Costa Rica tour operator is important. You cannot make this decision based on price alone. A US badged company is also not a guarantee. Many of these are smaller companies paying a franchise fee. Educate yourself as much as possible. This is one case of getting exactly what you pay for.

Not to blow my horn. But working with a tour operator is one way to avoid this.

Ceviche, the perfect snack!

Gaia Ceviche Ceviche (also spelled Cerviche) is almost as important to Costa Rica Cuisine as the ubiquitous Gallo Pinto. It can be found all over the country. From bus station counters to high end restaurants, you will almost always find this fish cocktail on the menu.

I live in New Orleans, and I am a gumbo junkie. Working from essentially the same ingredients and spices, everyone here produces a different gumbo. All local cooks have their own recipe, and all are (usually) delicious. I almost always order a cup or bowl of gumbo when I see it on a menu. I want to taste everyone’s individual creation.

Ceviche is the same way. It is served throughout Latin America. Every country, and every cook, has their own spin. But the basic ingredients in Costa Rica are fresh fish, lime juice, minced onions, cilantro and minced peppers. Some cooks add fresh pepper and salt as well. There are some variations and secret ingredients, and it is always delicious. The fish varies. Most of the time it is either Tilapia or Corvina (Sea Bass). I have also enjoyed excellent shrimp Ceviche. I have even had “meatless” Ceviche, that is made with chayote (a Latin squashlike veggie) or mangos.

Those unacquainted with ceviche will turn their nose up at it. They think of it a raw fish. It doesn’t sound very good. But sometimes, you need to keep an open mind and dive in.

Ceviche is never actually cooked over heat. The trick here is that the dish is marinated in the lime juice, and the citric acid “cooks” the fish. It also adds a very nice astringent feeling on the palate. This is the perfect refreshing and cool snack to enjoy at a beach side soda (small outdoor restaurant) with a cold brew.

Traditionally, this dish is accompanied by Patacones. These are mashed and fried green plantains. They don’t sound appetizing. But you have to trust me on this. Fresh warm patacones served with the cool ceviche is the perfect counter point to the citrus. You scoop up the ceviche, live you would a dip. Some places serve it with soda crackers, and some with tortilla chips.

Tortilla chips seemed to be replacing the patacones. Especially in a bar that lacks a full kitchen. The crunch is nice, and they are still good for collecting up all of that delicious protein.

If I don’t get patacones, I prefer the soda crackers. This sometimes gets me teased by my city friends. They call me a peasant. They see eating ceviche with crackers as lower class. Which is a little strange. Costa Ricans are fiercely proud of their Campesino heritage.

But I was first introduced to ceviche by a family of locals on the beach, during my first visit to Costa Rica in 1990. They ate their ceviche with soda crackers, So for me, that was just how it was done. It is still widespread. You can usually ask for some crackers in any soda in the country. No one bats an eye. I like the crispy, salty base with my chilled fish cocktail.

I also usually prefer tilapia over corvina, because I sometimes detect a slight fishy flavor in the corvina. But both are fine. The spices are usually pretty mild. So most of the time, I mix in a dash or two of hot sauce.

I have “researched” this extensively. In no particular order, here is a list of my favorite ceviche in Costa Rica. So Far!

The bus station in Quepos. I know that sounds strange. The bus station snack bars don’t look like much. But the food at these stops is usually the cheapest in town. The ceviche here is particularly good, because this is a fishing town. The owners have access to the freshest ingredients.
Hotel Gaia, also in the Manuel Antonio area. A more upscale version, with some different ingredients. But this restaurant serves some amazing food, and the ceviche is no different. We like their Euro feeling and elegant open air restaurant, that feels more like seaside Italy than Costa Rica.
Palenque Garabito. Located on the Pan American highway, between Puntarenas and the turnoff to Monteverde. This is a roadside soda, that is a slight cut above your typical soda. Of course it is open air, casual, and inexpensive. But the waiters wear ties, and seat you. The ceviche here, is an always fresh corvina version. This is a required stop for us whenever we pass by. During football (soccer) season, all the waiters line up in the dining area to watch the game and kibbutz with the Tico clients. True local color.
Restaurante Caballo Blanco. Also located on the Pan American highway, about two miles north of Palenque Garabito. This one is newer (but well established). It is slightly more upscale, though on past visits it has been a little less expensive that Palenque. Truthfully, either is fine.

Unfortunately, I have had to edit this list. For various reasons, a few of my favorites went out of business. The pandemic was brutal for the mom and pop sodas.

If you happen to come across really good ceviche during your travels, let me know. I am always up for more research. Buen Provecho!

Two Dozen Things to do in Monteverde

I spend a lot of time reading and sometimes responding to forum posts in the different travel web sites. I know that a lot of the folks there enjoy the beaches and the volcanoes of Costa Rica.

But I also notice that many people have said that there is not a lot to do in Monteverde. My guess is that this is because the activities here are not as “in your face” as they are in other parts of the country, or on an organized tour.

I always bristle a little when I read this. As a (very) part time Monteverde resident, I have to disagree. Sometimes you just have to look a little harder. monteverde reserve

So here is my list of two dozen things to do in Monteverde:

Canopy (zipline) tours. Invented here, and still the best in CR. Maybe the world. Don’t miss the Tarzan swing.
Hanging bridges. Ditto.
The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. World famous, for good reason.
Check out any of the other reserves. The different altitudes create different ecosystems. You will be amazed at the bio diversity up here.
Check out the numerous art galleries
Hike to the San Luis Waterfall
Take a horseback tour through the countryside around Canitas.
Tour the Rainaro (Frog zoo)
Tour the Serpentarium (Reptile zoo)
Tour the Insectarium (Insect zoo)
Take the “Trepiche” tour. A local family farm. They take you from the harvest to the farm’s own production of coffee and sugar. Sweet family, and much more interesting than I expected!
Check out the Bat Exhibit (with flight cage), more than you ever wanted to know about bats. But fascinating.
After you visit the bats, go upstairs to the little restaurant that makes their own chocolate. Great food here too, Argentine owned.
Tour the cheese factory, then enjoy the best milkshake you have ever had.
Visit the Orchid Garden just outside Santa Elena. The self taught horticulturist here has created an amazing garden, and even discovered a previously unknown species. We were amazed by the tiny orchids that you need a jeweler’s loupe to see. A perfectly formed orchid in miniature.
Take a guided night tour into the forest
Have a coffee and great fresh pastry at Stella’s bakery
After your visit to Stella’s, walk across the street to shop for handicrafts made by local women at the CASEM woman’s arts cooperative. You can also buy local coffee from the roaster next door.
Hear live music at Moon Shiva. Jazz, folk, Latin, etc. Always entertaining.
Check out the Saturday farmer’s market. Definitely some local color. Sometimes there is music, and there is always local food to eat on site. Good Ceviche!
Go to the hummingbird gallery. Great photo ops of dozens of hummingbirds.
Eat at any of the “International” restaurants. We are getting some interesting food up here!

Casa Corcovado: This Jewel is More Polished Then Ever

The Osa Peninsula has always been a rustic place. But that is a good thing. National Geographic magazine spent some time here a dozen or so years ago, and called Corcovado National Park the “most biologically diverse place on earth”. High praise indeed. But I think it could be true. We have always enjoyed our visits here.

Though I have had to warn my less experienced travelers that this is a remote place. Sometimes, the accommodations can be rustic and food choices limited. You can go a whole day without power. But the payoff is the dazzling variety of nature and world class hiking in the primary rainforest. My advice has always been to “suck it up”, deal with some of the issues and just get out there. It is worth it in the end.

A huge exception to this rule has always been Casa Corcovado. I tell my guests that the folks here make going to an unforgiving environment as comfortable as possible. I also tell them that this lodge is very well run, and fires on all eight cylinders. My guest reviews have consistently been very positive.

We like to inspect every property we offer at least once every couple of years. More often than that if we happen to be in the region. We have been in business since 1992, and we have a pretty good network of suppliers. So most hotels are gracious enough to offer us a short stay to get to know their property, so that I can properly represent it to our clients.

If I stay in a hotel for a few days, I will always take a day to check out what might be new and interesting in the area. I also look in on my existing suppliers to make sure that they are still offering a consistent product.

But this is a tough one. Getting to this part of the Osa requires round trip airplane and boat rides. When you stay at any of the lodges down here, food has to be included. Most of the time, there are tours included too. There really aren’t any other options, so it all becomes part of the package. A free room for a night is one thing. But these extra expenses make it hard for me to ask for a freebie just so we can come down and look around. Consequently, I had not been onsite at Casa Corcovado in a decade.

I have worked with the management team here for years. The owner Steve and his manager in San Jose, Geovanny have always been terrific. Most of our contact is with the folks in the reservations department. We always find everyone on their team to be extremely professional. But more than anything, they are also just really nice folks, and a pleasure to work with. When Geovanny heard I might want to come down with my wife, he immediately invited us. Of course, we gratefully accepted.

When the day came, we flew down from San Jose on Sansa. We had fun flying along the coast and snapping pictures of Manuel Antonio from the air. We were greeted at the Palmar Sur airport by Jacob, who was to be our guide for the next three days. He packed us into the van, and we drove through the plantations to the lodge’s “Hacienda” welcome center on the Rio Sierpe. This was our chance to relax for a few minutes with a cool beverage, use the restroom, etc. We sat at a table on the river and watched the local boat traffic. Everything from modern boats used by the lodges, to some old fishing boats that didn’t look very seaworthy at all! We waited here while some other staff members arrived to begin their stay at the lodge. They all have their own schedules. They commute in and out, and stay for days or weeks at a time. We had a pretty full boat by the time we pulled away from the dock.

We rode down the river towards Drake Bay. The driver diverted from the main river and into the mangroves that grow thick along the river near the ocean. We slowly navigated the narrow canals, while Jacob explained the importance of the mangroves in the local ecosystem. Very cool. I’ve been in a mangrove forest before. But these were extensive.

We eventually cleared the river mouth and crossed Drake Bay to make a landing at the beach in front of Casa Corcovado. It was high tide, and we had to roll up our shorts and hop out into knee deep water. But nothing too difficult, and the guides stayed close to prevent any mishap. We hadn’t even reached the lodge yet, and we were already enjoying our adventure. We left our luggage to the staff, and boarded the tram (actually a trailer pulled by a tractor) that took us up to the lodge for lunch.

Wow. Things had changed. One of the things that I have always appreciated about Steve, is that he is not a guy who is content to lay on a beach. He always has a new project, or an idea to improve the guest experience. He closes the lodge for two and a half months during the rainiest months of the year. The staff members that want to take vacations, do so at this time. But the lodge employs a lot of local folks who depend on the lodge to support their families. They can’t afford a ten week vacation. So they are welcome to stay on to help with Steve’s many projects and general maintenance

Since I had stayed here ten years ago, there have been massive improvements to this already stellar lodge. There was a new pool to compliment the existing spring fed pool. The open air bar had been expanded and is now used for lunch and dinner when there is low occupancy. The old kitchen building is gone, and replaced by a beautiful new restaurant with high ceilings and stained glass windows. The staff area has been improved for their comfort, and all of the guest bungalows have been enlarged and reconfigured. They have also built some new Jr. Suites for family groups. They have improved their trail access, and rebuilt their little sunset rancho where drinks are served every evening. Oh yes, they are off the grid and generate their own reliable electricity. We were blown away. This wasn’t even the same facility from ten years ago.

After a delicious lunch and brief orientation, we were shown to our Honeymoon bungalow. It was stunning. There was a huge four poster bed with high quality linens. There was a large vanity area with closet and shelf space. The commode was in it’s own water closet, and there was a huge outdoor shower (with hot water, of course). This was lots of fun. It was lit with blue LEDs, and was a great place to shower and look at the stars. There was also the usual compliment of quality grooming products and a stocked honor bar. Not bad for the middle of the rainforest! I do have to mention that their fragile power system can’t support air conditioning. But the evenings cool down quite a bit, and we survived very well with the strong ceiling fan over the bed.

Our luggage had been brought up from the boat, and placed in the bungalow. We had some free time to move in, then put on our bathing suits to check out the new pool. We enjoyed a beverage and lounged about for an hour or so, before going back to our room to change.

By then, it was time to stroll down to the sunset rancho for a margarita before dinner. This became a ritual every evening. This is an active place. Plan on expending a lot of energy having fun here. A beautiful sunset and adult beverage is always a great way to finish a busy day. They serve some good boca’s (appetizers) at the rancho too.

We happened to hit the lodge during a lull and there were only two other people at dinner. They were leaving the next morning. So we had the place pretty much to ourselves. Jacob stopped by to give us the plan for the next day. We were going on a day long hike in Corcovado National Park. The lodge was bringing us lunch at the ranger station. It was going to be just the two of us and Jacob. A private tour.

We were up early the next morning for a delicious breakfast. The meals here are not buffets, we could order whatever we wished from the menu. Jacob was waiting when we finished. We went over to the “guide shack” to be outfitted with rubber boots and walking sticks. Off we went into the woods. It was muddy, and there was a fresh fallen tree blocking one of the paths. But it was easy enough to get around. This day was so much fun. Jacob was an excellent guide and interesting guy. Smart and well traveled. He knew his stuff, and seemed happy to realize that we wanted to know everything we could. He worked really hard at finding all sorts of flora and fauna. We soaked it up. Birds, monkeys, poison dart frogs, odd trees, fruits, insects, and flowers. It was a great morning. We stopped for an hour at the ranger station for lunch. Jacob cut fruit and laid out our full lunch of fruit drinks, lunch meats, fresh bread (baked at the lodge), gallo pinto, cheeses, etc. He then disappeared for a short while to visit with his ranger friends. We relaxed some, and checked out the beach.

After a bit, he came back and we started our walk back along a river to the

waterfall. I had been here a decade ago, and it was as beautiful as I remembered. There were several pools downstream. One of them was good for swimming. Another held a seven foot long crocodile. He was in a pool upstream from us, and Jacob assured us that it was okay. The guides apparently knew this fellow. So we took a nervous quick dip (it was hot and humid, we really wanted to cool off). Jacob didn’t join us. But I did notice that he had positioned himself where he could keep an eye on both us and our croc friend. So I felt a little better.

We eventually headed back to the lodge the same way we had come. When we arrived back at the ranger station, we found several huge scarlet macaws foraging in a tree. We were able to get very close, and take lots of pictures. When we arrived back at the lodge we were two very happy campers.

One quick note, this hike ain’t for wimps. Don’t get the wrong idea, it isn’t an iron man competition. But I don’t want to give the impression that this is just a stroll in the park either. I’m a middle aged (if I live to be 120) guy, who does light to moderate exercise every week. I had no problem handling it, so I think most people can do it. But this is an active destination, and it is hot and humid. We had sweat right through our clothes by lunch. You will find yourself stepping over felled trees and branches, wading in mud, and navigating the occasional narrow path. By the end of the day, we were a little worn out. But it was worth every single second.

After our hike, Melissa grabbed a shower, and went to get the massage she had booked the day before. I toured the property with the resident manager, Steven.

He showed me all the improvements, and the various accommodations. I particularly liked the Jr. Suites, which were new since my last visit. These are two adjoining one bedroom apartments each with 1½ baths. They can be combined. With the sleeper sofas open, you end up with an accommodation with two private bedrooms, two sleeping areas in the living rooms, two full baths, and two half baths. Perfect for a family group. After my tour, I went back to the pool for a dip and to wait for my wife.

Melissa came back energized and gushing about her massage. She said it was the best she ever had. I immediately booked mine for the next evening. This evening’s routine was much the same. We had drinks at the Sunset Rancho and another wonderful meal. Jacob stopped by our table to tell us we were going snorkeling at Isla del Cano the next day. A very nice couple had come in that day, and we had spied them in the pool earlier. We met them at dinner and found out that they were Costa Ricans, who were also involved in tourism. They were coming with us on our tour the next day. Jacob had also offered to take Melissa and I out on a morning bird tour before breakfast.

That night, Melissa was awakened by a horrible racket. There was some kind of animal carnage going on in the nearby woods. From her description, the guides thought that a puma or some other wildcat had gotten hold of a monkey. It goes to show how close to nature the lodge is. It also made me think about those wildlife films we have all seen. The prey always gives in so easy. That apparently wasn’t the case here. But then again, I slept through it. I’ve also once slept through an earthquake in Costa Rica. Go figure.

We were up early in the morning to walk the lodge property with Jacob. What a fun way to work up an appetite for breakfast. We had seen the day before that this guy had a good eye, as he was spotting animals every where. He proved it again this morning. He would hear a bird call from a couple hundred meters away, and in a half a minute he would have it sighted in on his amazing scope. We had a least a dozen good sightings, then it was time for breakfast and to board the boat to the island. Along with our boat captain and Jacob, we had the other two guests and another guide with us. We had a nice morning snorkeling with lots of colorful schools of fish. There was a beautiful little beach, and we had fun shooting a video of the hermit crabs for our grandson.

But the big adventure of the day was yet to come, as we were riding back in the boat. I was very relaxed, and quite content. I was literally thinking that I could not imagine a better day. Then a huge humpback whale breached in front of our boat. Right where I was looking. This has to be one of the most spectacular things I have ever seen. The whole boat erupted with shouts of “Whale!’ We hung around for about 15 minutes, and it surfaced a few more times. The guides were very happy. This was the first of the season, and there was a lot of chatter between the staff about it at the lodge. Once we arrived back at the lodge, we walked along the shoreline to where they had set up lunch under a palm frond pergola on their pretty little beach. We ate with our new friends, and the guides said that we were welcome to stay and swim. But I had to drag myself away. I had booked my massage with Cynthia, and I wasn’t going to miss it.

I don’t know how to describe it. How do you describe a massage? But I have to agree with Melissa. Absolutely the best massage ever. Afterwards, Cynthia had brewed some tea. Melissa joined us and we had a chance to chat. Cynthia turned out to be a delightful young woman. She had went to a massage school in San Jose, and supplemented her training with some Hungarians that hold workshops in Costa Rica from time to time. She was also a yoga instructor, and told us that she was taking her dream trip during the break. She was going to India with about 15 other yoga enthusiasts for a month. She was beaming. We beamed for her. It is always a wonderful thing to see someone follow their passion.

All in all. We were thrilled to see that Casa Corcovado had morphed into a luxury resort, with a minuscule environmental footprint. They are truly off the grid. They are generating their own electricity, purifying their own water, and dealing with their own sewage and trash. It really is an amazing model of sustainable development. The surrounding forest is untouched and the management is a responsible steward of the nature they share. They take their responsibility seriously.

We reluctantly packed up the next morning for the journey back to San Jose. We were not ready to go. We were ready to move in. We wanted to hang out with our new friends, eat great food, and hike in the woods. But our real lives were calling. So we left happy, and appreciative of the gifts working in this industry gives to us. And we hope to do another “inspection” sometime soon.

Driving to Monteverde

We have flown into Liberia on our last couple of trips. I like the San Jose airport more. It is more modern and full service, and I always enjoy visiting with our San Jose hotel friends.

But the drive to Monteverde from Liberia is an hour shorter. While American Airlines is absolutely my least favorite carrier, they have a flight to Liberia that goes through Dallas. This allows us to avoid the headaches of the Miami airport.

We drove up the road through Las Juntas. This is the first time we have gone this way, and it is the best road that we have found yet. There is a very good paved road from the Pan American highway that leads into Los Juntas. You have to navigate a little in town, but if you can find the statue of several Campesinos, you are on the right track. Turn here, and you are on the road to Santa Elena. There is good paved road leading out of town, and only the last twenty kilometers (twelve miles) are unpaved. Even then, this road is in very good condition and is generally not as scary as the other road up from the Pan Am. It probably is not worth the extra drive from San Jose. But if you are coming from Liberia, this is by far the best choice.

Gallo Pinto, a great way to start the day.

Gallo Pinto It is a typical morning in Costa Rica, and my lovely bride is craving a “Tipical” breakfast.

Costa Rica has always been an agricultural economy. Even though tourism is now the #1 industry, many folks still work close to the land. This hearty meal is just the ticket to “fuel the furnace” for another active day. Tipical breakfasts include eggs, delicious local cheese, plantains, tortillas and Gallo Pinto. Of course, a cup or two of excellent local coffee completes the equation.

Gallo Pinto is the national dish of Costa Rica. The main ingredients are black beans and rice. Recipes vary, but most cooks add onions, bell pepper, and cilantro, all fried together in a little oil. During the cooking process, the rice takes on the color of the beans. This gives the dish a speckled appearance, hence the name, Gallo Pinto. Or “Speckled Rooster” in Spanish.

Gallo Pinto is omnipresent and served in virtually every restaurant in the country, from the fanciest hotel to the Burger King at the airport. If breakfast is served, you can bet that Gallo Pinto is on the menu.

There are slight variants around the country, where local ingredients find their way into the dish. In Guanacaste, it is not unusual to find hot peppers. On the Caribbean side, we were surprised to find some shredded coconut. There is always another local favorite on the table too. No dining table in Costa Rica is complete without a bottle of Salsa Lizano. This mildly spicy condiment adds extra zip to Gallo Pinto, and almost everything else consumed here!

Ziplining: a safe and thrilling adventure!

monteverde-canopy-tour The zipline tours through the forest canopy originated as a commercial venture in Monteverde. There is some dispute about how they were invented and by whom. One of the local businesses even has a copyright on the term “canopy tour”, which has become the catch all term that many use to describe this adventuresome activity. I won’t get involved in this argument, but I will tell you that this is one of the most fun things you can do during your adventure in Costa Rica. They are scattered all over the country. But I feel that the best ones can still be found around Monteverde. There are some slight variations on the mechanics. But all are basically long cables stretching from one hilltop to another. The participant (that would be you) wears a harness, that was borrowed from rock climbing gear. There is a pulley mechanism that fits over the cable, and this attaches to your harness. You stand on a platform, lift your legs, and let gravity take over.

Soon you are flying through the trees, and over valleys, sometimes several hundred feet up. You can get moving at a pretty good clip too. There are guides with you constantly, to assure your safety. They help you get your gear on, and hook you to the cables. They are there to stop you at the end of each run. Sometimes, the platform is high up in a tree or on a tower. In these cases, you are attached to a safety line before you are released from the main cable. The pulley system itself has some redundant safety lines too. So this activity is a lot safer than it first appears.

It is not for the faint of heart, or those with a fear of heights! But it is exhilarating and lots of fun. The typical tour will have at least ten platforms, sometimes more. As each new tour opens, it brings improvements. So the established tours scramble to keep up. I have heard of a Central Valley tour that offers a long “superman” style cable. Here, you lay straight out and face down. The cable is above, so you fly like Superman. Sounds great. At least one Monteverde operator has added a “Tarzan swing” as a side attraction. They hook you up to a swinging bungie cable. You free fall about ten feet, and then take a long lazy swing out over a little gully. It is scarier than it sounds! But still fun.

The zipline tours are meant for all ages, as they really are not that strenuous. Obviously, the littlest kids are not going to be allowed. But I have seen kids as young as five years old on the tour. They usually ride double with a guide. The cables are very strong. A guide once told me that they could support a car. But some do have weight limits, that will restrict the largest folks. So if you think that this may be an issue for you, it is best to check ahead of time.

Two of the Monteverde tours also offer bridges and walkways through the cloud forest canopy. This is a great place to walk with a guide or by yourself to see what you can spot in the treetops. It is also an option for the less adventurous to enjoy while the family daredevils are on the cables. One tour operator has expanded into a full blown nature park with butterfly and hummingbird gardens, insect exhibits, a reptile and amphibian exhibit, and a full restaurant. You can enjoy a whole day here, and never leave the grounds.

One last thing. Some of the tours offer this up as a nature experience. Other than the pretty woods, this is usually not the case. The hooting and yelling tourists tend to drive the animals away. But let’s be honest. You will be standing on a platform and attached to a cable, preparing to speed high over the treetops to a destination that you may not even be able to see. Are you really going to be thinking about birds and flowers?

The Painted Oxcart, from humble vehicle to national symbol

PAINTED OXCART The town of Sarchi has become well known as the home of that colorful symbol of Costa Rica, the painted ox cart. Yes, miniature versions have become popular as mini bars purchased by tourists to ship home. But the history of the ox cart is much more interesting, and they have played a very important part in the economic development of this country.

During the colonial period, they were used for the transportation of coffee, sugar cane, tobacco and other agricultural products. Teams of two oxen would pull the product laden carts down the treacherous paths from the Central Valley to Puntarenas for eventual export. On the return trip, they would be filled with manufactured goods from Europe. This includes the famous metal church in Grecia, a small town near Sarchi. This huge church was prefabricated in Belgium in the 1890’s, and shipped to Puntarenas. It was then transported piece by piece by hundreds of the relatively tiny oxcarts, a process that took a period of several years. If you visit this magnificent edifice, take a moment to think about the drivers from a century ago, walking every step next to their oxen, and exposed to the elements. It was a difficult life.

The owners of the oxcarts painted the carts to preserve them. But as time went by, the painting became more and more elaborate. A kind of competition eventually developed over who not only had the finest team of oxen, but who had the most beautiful cart. A national icon was born. Nowadays, you can still find the occasional ox cart in use in the rural areas. However modern truck tires have replaced the gaily painted solid wooden wheels, and you usually won’t see the intricate designs of days gone by.

But the painted oxcart lives on as a locally beloved art form. When you are in Sarchi, stop by one of the oxcart factories to purchase souvenirs. Take some time to check out the artisans working in the rear. They fabricate the different wooden parts on site. If you are lucky, you will see them methodically laying down the layers of paint necessary in each design.

In 1988, the government designated the painted oxcart as the National Symbol of Work. This was in recognition of the huge contribution that the humble oxcart made to the economic and social development of Costa Rica.